Rising costs and changing tastes put pressure on Scotland’s potato growers

Scotland’s potato farmers are under pressure – from rising costs in the fields to changing habits at the dinner table.

Soaring fuel and fertiliser costs mean it’s never been more expensive to grow the crop, with the number of potato growers has shrunk by 80% over the last 40 years.

Scotland produces around a quarter of all potatoes grown in the UK. But figures suggest demand for fresh potatoes has fallen by 70% since the 1970s.

There is some hope the food could find favour again as the cost of living continues to rise – but farmers say they need to adapt.

Taygrow director Gordon Stark said: “We have changed what we grow in recent years – you can’t sell medium potatoes. People want convenience.

“The growers themselves in the market are professional growers. A lot of inputs are required and good land to grow potatoes, lots of good machinery and good infrastructure. They are susceptible to disease. It’s important to keep growing them.

“It’s been challenging. The industry goes through peaks and troughs – it’s cyclical. We’re in a bit of a lull at the moment, but it will come back.”

Baked potatoes featuring a range of fillings STV News

The kitchen at Upper Dysart farm STV News

Once a traditional potato farm in Montrose, Upper Dysart has created new products with its spuds to meet changing habits. They now mash and vacuum‑pack their tatties for sale and constantly update the menu in their cafe to keep up with demand.

Jessica Squires, director at Upper Dysart Larder, is one of four siblings working to keep the family farm competitive as food trends change.

“We do loaded baked potatoes, loaded fries, traditional stovies and baked potato soup – it’s about how you make it interesting and exciting.

“You can spice up a basic meal by adding our chorizo mash with a steak to make it more interesting.

“It’s about how you present it and bringing it to the table trend‑wise. We change it seasonally to meet demand.”

Potato growers forced to adapt to changing demand - but they hope the tide will soon turn — Potato growers forced to adapt to changing demand – but they hope the tide will soon turn STV News

The farm includes a restaurant and larder selling produce directly to customers, along with a children’s play park and animal experience.

“Customers come out to the farm and learn where food comes from. We also work with local producers for our butter and cheese – everything is locally sourced.”

So how do people feel about the humble spud?

One woman said: “I eat them about three times a week. We enjoy the traditional meat and two veg, it’s comfort food.”

“They go with everything don’t they – unless it’s pasta,” another man added.

The farm's larder focuses on convenience items — The farm’s larder focuses on convenience items STV News

“Yeah it’s convenient for the kids, and they’re really fussy so it’s handy. You can stick them in the air fryer.”

Meanwhile, discussions are continuing over a potential new food standards deal with the European Union. Critics fear closer alignment would render Brexit meaningless – but it could also allow seed potatoes to be exported to the EU once again, reopening a market worth millions.

Despite the challenges, farmers are keen to encourage consumers to buy local.

Gordon said: “We’re growing products on our doorstep, potatoes from nowhere else in the world. You couldn’t ask for a more local product.

“We should be using them and eating local. They’re affordable, healthy and full of natural energy.”